
Trip to Newfoundland-July 2 to July19, 1998

Thursday, July 2 High Bridge to Vernon Connecticut
Left High Bridge at 3:30 PM with a stop at Naugatuck to see Christopher,
Emily, Arnie and Melinda.
Emily isn't showing much interest in coming along
Friday July 3
Vernon Ct to Portland with stop in Ogunquit
Traffic was very busy from Lowell to the New Hampshire tolls even though we
had left Vernon at 7:00 am. The traffic was
bumper to bumper with speeds never exceeding 40 mph. We stopped to have
lunch in Ogunquit and had a nice
chat with Tim Tower, captain of the fishing boat Bunnyclark. Arrived in Portland at around
2:30 PM and went to the visitors center. Downtown Portland is a very interesting
restored old section with many shops and attractions-and we decided that we must go for a weekend
sometime. Went out to the Portland Head Light which was scenic and beautiful.
Then we went to the USS Portland Monument. The USS Portland was a cruiser which
served in many battles in World War II in the Pacific-approximately 21 killed on
this ship.. Spoke to an older gentleman at the Memorial who knew much of the
area and the ship. After lobster dinner at a dockside restaurant we had to go and line up for the Scotia
Prince which is an overnight boat to Yarmouth, NS. The DEA had a drug sniffing dog who sniffed all the cars. The dog went
crazy at a pickup truck and the men in blue really went through the truck but
came away empty-handed.
The ship sailed at 9:00 PM with the fireworks going off at the Portland Head
Lighthouse in the distance. We had an outside cabin. After loosing $20.00 in the
casino and watching the dance entertainment on the boat we retired at about
midnight for a nice sleep.
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Portland Head Light
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Portland Head Light
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Harbor view from Portland Head Light
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Site of Chritmas Eve wreck in 1866
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Kayaker off shore
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Portland Head Light
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Portland Head Light
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Longfellows poem about lightkeepers
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Cape Elizabeth Light
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Portland Harbor
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Memorial to the USS Portland - a very busy cruiser in WWII
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Along the Portland waterfront
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Sunset from the Scotia Prince
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Scotia Prince the ship that took us to Nova Scotia
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Saturday July 4 Yarmouth to Chester on Nova Scotia
Went through customs in Yarmouth with no problem. The customs person asked
the usual questions and inquired if I was bringing in any articles for self
protection. They mean guns, mace or pepper spray-I pointed to Mom and said I was
bringing her in for my protection. Even got a smile from the customs lady. Right
outside the gate of the ferry terminal was a guy playing the bagpipes and
another guy selling Cuban Cigars-No sale I quit two months ago. Drove from
Yarmouth on the lighthouse trail through Shelbourne. Shelbourne is just the same
as it was five years ago-charming. Since then, the Scarlet Letter had been
filmed there and the movie company has left some additional props (buildings) in
the historical district. This is second year in a row where we had been to a
town where a film had been made. Last year-1997-we were in
Wallace, Idaho where Dante's Inferno was filmed. From Shelbourne we continued to
Chester via Liverpool and Mahone Bay. I got gas in a small town about 5 miles
from Mahone Bay and asked the attendant if the road in front of the gas station
would take me through Mahone Bay and he said that he had never been east of the
town we were in. Wow. Stopped at the Ovens- a series of caves opening into the
ocean where the waves make thunderous sounds as they head into the cave. It is
possible to take tours into the caves with rubber boat but we passed that. Gold
was mined here in the 1800's and some of the stones used to grind the ore are on
display. You can still pan for gold if you want to work at it. This is a very
lovely spot. Lunched at Liverpool before the ovens-great fresh seafood.
Liverpool is the birthplace of Country star Hank Snow.
Stopped overnight in Chester figuring that since Chester had a playhouse, it
would be a busy place. Wrong. High Bridge, NJ has more activity. The restaurant touted in the guide book had been
closed for two years, but we found a restaurant with excellent food and a very self important
waiter.
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Saltmarsh at Yarmouth - very peaceful
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Memorial to fishermen in Shelbourne
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Seashore along the Ovens Park
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Gold Ore Crushing apparatus at the Ovens
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Cave at the Ovens
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Cave explorers from the sea at the Ovens
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Ovens
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Ovens
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Sunday July 5
Halifax to Truro
Drove to Halifax from Chester driving the coastal route-Scenic beyond belief
but then we hadn't seen Newfoundland yet. At Halifax we went to the Tattoo which
is a military band assembly.
Unbelievable color, pomp and music. The pipers were practicing outside the hall
and we listened to them warming up for quite a while. The Tattoo was a
spectacle. There were many countries represented. One of the groups was from
Germany. They had 4 guys who played the Alpen Horns. I never thought these were
a serious instrument but the sounds were beautiful. I can only think of the
Riccola Cough drop add that Grandpa Buza-Herbie- would laugh about. The German
band also carried a standard which except for the missing eagle on top reminded
one of the rallies seen on TV at Nuremberg (eerie). The Swiss acrobats put on a
comedy routine which kept everyone laughing. After the Tattoo we left for Truro
to get a jump on the Newfoundland ferry for Monday afternoon. I almost got a
ticket in crossing the Dartmouth bridge. It seems that the Canadian practice for
paying a toll is to give the toll collector a dollar to get the change and then deposit the
required amount in a hopper. I gave the guy a $5.00 got change and thinking I
had paid drove through. When I heard the yelling I stopped and realized the
error. Oh well. At Truro we went to the Tidal Bore viewing area at 10:30 PM.
The bore was about 12 inches high and you could see it and hear it coming up the
river in a rush. Within minutes the river which was previously calm and dead,
became a torrent of rushing water in the opposite direction. Within 15 minutes,
the river had risen over three feet.
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Along the coast Chester to Halifax
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Along the coast to Halifax
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Along the coast to Halifax
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Tatoo in Halifax
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Tatoo in Halifax
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Tatoo in Halifax
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Tatoo in Halifax
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Tatoo in Halifax
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Tatoo in Halifax
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Thats a foot and a half of water rushing upstream - its a tidal bore.
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Monday July 6 Truro to North Sydney to Argentia, Newfoundland
Breakfasted in New Glasgow and drove to Antigonish to exchange money. Drove
through Baddeck to North Sydney and made reservations for the Men of the Deeps
concert on July 14, 1998. After lunch had to get in line for the Joseph and
Clara Smallwood ferry to Newfoundland. This is some operation. We were delayed
by about one hour because the other ferry the Caribou-had engine problems and
was late in unloading. Maybe not a good omen as we are taking the Caribou back
to Nova Scotia. The Smallwood is and amazing ferry. It also serves as an
icebreaker in the winter. We had an inside cabin for the 14 hour trip to Nfld.
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Caribou Ferry in Sidney, NS
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Caribou on way to Port Aux Basques
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Caribou on way to Port Aux Basques
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From the deck of the Smallwood
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Workboat
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Leaving Nova Scotia
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Leaving Nove Scotia
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Dinner on board was edible-that’s it. There were three modes of entertainment
on board. A fiddle player who played in the general seating area before and in
between the movies. Two folksingers who played in the bar/lounge and did a lot
of Irish and also funny stuff. And then the Movies. We enjoyed two sets of the
Irish singers and then headed off to bed at around 11:00 as the boat was
scheduled to land at 6:00 am with the delay.
Tuesday July 7 Argentia,Nfld to St. John's Nfld.
Very Foggy
After getting of the boat at 7:00 AM we had breakfast in Placentia hoping
that the fog would lift.
No such luck. We started to drive to Cape St. Mary's in
the fog. Cape St. Mary's has a bird preserve where Puffins are known to exist.
When we got there the fog horn at the lighthouse was a musical instrument. I
walked to the edge of the cliff and could hear all kinds of birds and also the
waves but could only see about 4 feet in front of me. After watching the virtual
puffins, we continued along the way around the Avalon peninsula. I have since
copied and inserted a picture of the lighthouse at Cape St. Mary's and a group
of puffins. By 10:00 am the
fog lifted and it became sunny. The coast was unlike any we have ever seen.
Barren except for small villages now and then. Rocky coast with lovely coves and
Harbors. The pictures here are from the net.
We stopped in Ferryland-very picturesque and also Witless Bay where we saw
our first iceberg. Not too big but it was there. We also stopped at the Rocky
River Fish ladder which permits Atlantic salmon to go upstream for fish sex. The
fisheries person at the ladder said that there had been no fish that day but
that the previous day a few had made their ascent. Good job - stand there and
count no fish for a day. Oh well. We arrived at St.
John's around 5:30 in the afternoon after the all day drive thru the barren
coast line. Along the way we stopped at a small community called St. Shotts.
Picturesque and almost abandoned because of the fishing moratorium for cod. We
saw three Caribou on the way out of St. Shotts.
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Rocky River Fish Ladder
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Boats at St. Shotts
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Four legged caribou along road to St. Shotts
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Rocks close to Ferryland
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Our first view of an iceberg
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Newfoundland-the home of the Grand Banks-Cod country has no notable cod
fishery anymore. Recreational fishermen in all of Newfoundland can only fish for
cod three days a year in September and then can keep 10 per day. The commercial
fishery consists of a few chosen fishermen who can catch up to 1500 lbs. per
day-hand lining-no nets. There is a limit also to how many days they can do
this-I think it was five days a year with the days varying by area. The fish
have to be measured and evaluated to determine if the ground stocks are
re-plentishing. You can fish in the ocean for other species other than cod but if
you fish with any rig that could be constituted to be able to catch cod-you can
have your boat confiscated and also face a heavy fine.
After dinner in St. Johns where we had codfish tongues (not to our taste) we
went to see the Lighthouse at Fort Amherst. Up until the 1970's the Amherst area
of St Johns was a walk in community along a cliff. No cars. Just a wooden
walkway along the piers. Now you can drive in but to get to the lighthouse you
must walk along an uphill paved roadway on the edge of a cliff. Mom loved this.
The lighthouse itself was in a beautiful spot on the southern edge of the
Narrows leading into St. Johns Harbor. St Johns harbor is one of the most
beautiful I have seen. On the north shore of the Narrows there is a cliff
approximately 1000 feet straight out of the ocean at the point of entry into the
ocean. The cliff is called Signal Hill. There is a museum at the Lighthouse and
the woman running it was very interesting to talk to. It seems she is married to
a man whose father was the last lighthouse keeper. She knew much about the area
and besides was an excellent photographer.
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Signal Hill from Fort Amherst
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Signal Hill from Fort Amherst
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Ft. Amherst from Signal Hill
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Ft. Amherst Lighthouse
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Fort Amherst from Signal Hill
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Wednesday July 8 St. John's
Today we decided to stick around St. Johns and see the area here. Started out
by trying to find our way up Signal Hill. Wound up on back end of hill at
Cuckolds Cove. This was the area that married women from the fort met their
paramours. Thus Cuckolds cove. Finally located the way up. Signal Hill has a
tower built to honor John Cabot's 400th year celebration in 1897. The view from
up here is amazing. A great look at the Amherst lighthouse we visited the day
before and a great view of the narrows and the harbor. At the tower mom was
asking for directions to a store downtown. The sales clerk explained that the
store was on Water street right next to the subway. I said that I didn't think
St. Johns was big enough for a subway. The clerk said Subway sandwich shop.
Chalk one up to dumb old me.
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The Marconi Plaque
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The reader at Signal Hill Tower
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Signal Hill Tower
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View of St. John's Harbor from Signal Hill
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View of St. John's Harbor from Signal Hill
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The Redcoats are coming - Soldier Drill Demo at Signal Hill
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Soldier Drill Demo at Signal Hill
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Soldier Drill Demo at Signal Hill
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Soldier Drill Demo at Signal Hill
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Soldier Drill Demo at Signal Hill
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After the tower we went to Cape Spear Lighthouse which is the most
eastern point in North America. It has a lighthouse and a rocky cliff like
coast. The best surprise here was that on the way down the path to the most
eastern point, we could hear the blow of a whale. Sure enough, right there in
front of us were a few whales looking for capelin. Then some porpoises
showed up. Quite a show for free.
After shopping and some lunch we went to the Memorial University of
Newfoundland Aquaculture exhibit. Beautiful site on a great cove. The site is
studying seals, and fish with the object to increase economic activity in these
species.For dinner I tried a caribou steak at a restaurant serving wild game and
found this also not to be to my taste. Later we went down to the main
entertainment street - George St. and listened to some Celtic music in a local
pub.
Thursday July 9 St. John's to Twillingate
Left St. Johns at 7:30 am for the 275 mile drive to Twillingate. Distances
are quite deceiving on this island. It is the 16th largest island on earth.
Twillingate is an island in the north central part of the island-due north from
Gander. We were going there to take a Iceberg tour boat as Twillingate was one
of the last remaining places where Icebergs were still around this time of year.
On the way we stopped at the Silent Witness memorial.
The memorial is to honor
the 248 US airborne troops and 8 crewmembers of the DC 8 that crashed during the
1980's at Gander during take off after a refueling stop. The troops were on the
way home from a peacekeeping mission in the Sinai. Very emotional spot. There is
a cross also at the memorial which is made from the remains of one of the exit
doors from the ill fated plane. I remember the crash from news on TV and this
stop really brings it home. Hard to keep a dry eye here and we didn't.
At Twillingate we went to the Long Point Lighthouse. There was a very large
iceberg right in front of the lighthouse. It was also on this day that mom ran
out of underwear. At the lighthouse there was a craft shop which mom had to go
into. I told mom to check it out for craft underwear. The museum at Twillingate
was excellent. Much local information. Twillingate was the town that Dr. Olds
practiced surgery. He worked in this area for 40-50 years. There is a book out
about him "An American Surgeon in Newfoundland".
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Long Point Lighthouse
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Iceberg off Long Poing
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Iceberg in the distance at Long Point
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Long Point Lighthouse
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Iceberg from the cemetery at Twillingate
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Canadian Coast Guard Cutter at Twillingate
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Boats at Twillingate
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For dinner we selected a dinner theater group-The Fisher Players. This group
of unemployed fishermen and women prepare a home cooked stuffed cod dinner with
all the fixings and then perform Newfoundland skits and songs for about one hour
after the dinner. The cost was 25.00 per person. The skits were quite funny even
though the accent was hard to pick out at times.
Friday July 10 Twillingate to Corner Brook
The Wind was howling all night at 25 knots, and it was a rainy cold morning
in Twillingate. Upon waking we found out that the iceberg/whale boats would not
be going out because of the weather. Rather than sticking around another day we
decided to head for Corner Brook(250 miles away) and get ready to go to Gros
Morne National Park on Saturday or Sunday. We stopped at Grand Falls to take a
look at the falls and found out there was a salmon fish ladder and salmon
viewing area at the falls. There was one place where the salmon would jump right
in front of you-not more than 5 feet away. The big ones were really quick and
could jump long distances. In addition there was a viewing area where you could
watch the salmon through glass as they swam around a holding pool to give them
some rest after the arduous ladder climb. The Atlantic salmon do not die after
spawning like the Pacific Salmon. The Atlantic salmon make on the average three
runs up the river and return every other year. They spend the winter in the
river and return to the ocean in the spring-they do not eat while in the fresh
water and return as long thin slivers.
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Grand Falls
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Rapids at Grand Falls
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Fish Ladder at Grand Falls
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We continued towards Corner Brook and the scenery changed markedly. While the
eastern part of Newfoundland has rolling landscape it is relatively level. About
60 miles east of Corner Brook, the landscape takes on a mountainous look. The
mountains while not high are spectacular and remind us of Wyoming and Montana as
the road snakes around them. We arrived in Corner Brook at around 5:30 PM and
settled into the Glynmill Hotel. Excellent choice-A refurbished old style hotel
with excellent rooms and services. Corner Brook is a city of 22000 which
primarily is supported by a large paper mill. There is also a ski hill at CB.
The setting for Corner Brook is spectacular. It is at the end of the Humber Arm
which is a huge bay with cliff like sides. According to the local brochures
Bottle Cove at the mouth of Humber Arm is a great spot to watch a sunset. Since
the weather had cleared in the afternoon we set off for Bottle Cove at around
7:30 PM. At 8:30 PM we arrived at bottle Cove and the sun was still up in the
air. We started to talk to an older gentleman who was fishing for sea trout with
a fly rod. He wanted to give me the fish but I couldn't take them with no place
to pan fry them.
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Boats hauled out at Bottle Cove
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The lone fisherman at Bottle Cove
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Sunset at Bottle Cove
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He was complaining that the fish were on the small side and that he could
only take 12 by law. Since neither he or his wife ate trout I was wondering
about the need to complain. The sun finally set magnificently at around 9:30 PM.
Since we had killed the supper hour we had to scramble to find a restaurant that
would serve us and finally located a Jungle Jim's which took us in at 10:45 PM.
I found out here mom likes reggae music (not)
Saturday July 11 Corner Brook to Gros Morne
After breakfast we decided that since it was gorgeous(mostly mom's idea) we
should do the Gros Morne boat ride this day rather than the next day. Carpe
Diem. At 8:30 am we started out for Rocky Harbor to pick up the tickets we had
reserved for the 1:00 pm boat ride. Rocky Harbor is about 1.5 hours from Corner
Brook. After paying for the tickets we set of for Western Pond. The ride to
Western Pond was another 30 minutes ride and then came the 3 km(1.8 mile) walk
to the boats. It is an easy walk and mom made it with no trouble. We just took
it slow. The walk itself is through some interesting landscape. Marsh and bog
like with flowers(iris) and lots of berries. Western Pond is a lake 16 km long
which was formed by retreating glaciers. It has sides which are cliffs which
rise to about 2000 feet in spots. There are many waterfalls. This was a
spectacular ride of 2.5 hours. Then you reverse the walk for 45 minutes. We
stopped at Lobster Cove Lighthouse on the way back-picturesque. By now it was
5:30 PM and we realized that we had not eaten since 8:30 am. Bad Pizza tasted
good. We were rally bushed when we got back to Corner Brook.
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Boatride on Western Brook Pond - Gros Morne Park
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Boatride on Western Brook Pond - Gros Morne Park
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Boatride on Western Brook Pond - Gros Morne Park
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Western Brook Pond
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Western Brook Pond
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Western Brook Pond
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Western Brook Pond
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Waterfall on the Western Broo Pond
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Waterfall
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Cut in the cliffs at Western Brook Pond
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Boatride on Western Brook Pond - Gros Morne Park
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Waterfall
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Boatride on Western Brook Pond - Gros Morne Park
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Boatride on Western Brook Pond - Gros Morne Park
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Lilly along the path
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Lobster Cove Light
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Lobster Cove Light
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Boats at Lobster Cove
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Sunday July 12 Corner Brook to Cox's Cove to Stephenville
Started late, after a scrumptious breakfast-Eggs Benedict on Smoked
Salmon at the Glynmill Inn, to take a ride to Captain Cook's monument and Cox's
Cove on the North side of the Humber Arm. Cooks monument overlooks Corner Brook
and Cox's is 30 miles up the Humber and is also called the Bay of Islands. Here
we encountered an idle fisherman who was very friendly and informative. The
scene here is a beautiful bay with cliff like walls and lots of rocky islands.
One of the things that we noticed throughout our trip in Newfoundland was that
many houses in the outlying areas did not have front steps. The front door was
there but depending on the slope of the land, there was as much as an 8 foot
drop to the ground from the door. We inquired of the fisherman and he called the
front door the second entrance. The side door is called the primary entrance and
the secondary entrance was only for emergencies such as fire. The fisherman also
explained that he has a cabin further up a river across the Bay of Islands and
that he is not adverse to going there to poach a codfish if he sets his mind to.
He has been fishing cod all his life and he will take one when he wants one.
There is no way to dispose of cod on a commercial basis as cod can only be sold
to a fish processing plant. Having a private agreement with a restaurant to
supply fresh fish would not work since everybody knows everybody and the news of
illegal sales would get around. He expressed real bitterness about the fishing
conditions. He also explained that once you get out of town, you can build a
cabin anywhere you want. That explains the many signs we saw on some roads that
said no construction without a permit. I guess un posted land is fair game. We
saw many cabins along roads that were not posted. He said that all you do is
haul the material out there and build. No taxes. I didn't ask about pollution
effects of human waste disposal. We got a real bonus at Cox's Cove-more whales
right below us in the water.
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Mom at Captain Cook's memorial
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Me at Captain Cooks Memorial
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Bay of Islands - there was a whale there but it dove
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After Cox's Cove we left for Stephensville further down the coast towards our
exit point Port Aux Basques. I wanted to ride the Port Au Port Peninsula to get
a flavor of the French influence on NFLD. Stephenville itself is an old Air
Force town created primarily during W.W.II. The ride around Port Au Port was
disappointing as it was foggy and rainy. The restaurant we stopped in for
lunch/dinner however showed that the French accent was alive and well on Nfld.
People here are descendants of French that came here 300 years ago and speak
English with a definite French Accent.
In the evening mom and I put $4 into slot machines in the hotel and I took
$10.10 out for a good profit margin.
Monday July 13 Stephenville to Port Aux Basques
Started out around 9:00 am towards Port Aux Basques where we have to catch a
ferry back to Nova Scotia on Tuesday am. We are only 50 miles from Port Aux
Basques but we didn't arrive in Port Aux Basques until 2:00 PM. We took our time
in going to different lighthouses along the way and taking in the beautiful sea
coast. Cape Anguille was a gorgeous spot where we had the lighthouse to
ourselves. We then drove through Codroy and stopped in the most amazing gas
station convenience store we have ever seen. Once inside the store we noticed
that the store stretches out to the side and has everything in it you could
imagine. A complete drum set, oodles of guitars, a mandolin, amplifiers,
refrigerators, large screen TV's, rubber slickers, boots, wool, meats,
groceries. As one Newfoundlander explained this was a general merchandise store
which as they say sells everything from needles to anchors. The condoms were on
the wall between the film and voltage meters.
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Somewhere allong the Western Shore
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Cape Ray Lighthouse
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Cape Ray
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Cape Anguille
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Cape Anguille
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Cape Anguille
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Somewhere along Western Newfoundland
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It ain't the Jersey Shore
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After checking in at the B&B we took a ride out to Rose Blanche on the South
Shore to see the only granite lighthouse on Nfld. The coast here changes
dramatically. Everything is green and mountainous but the green comes not from
trees but from the tundra like plants that cover the landscape with only
occasional trees. The coast is very rocky and the waves breaking some distance
into the ocean testify to the treacherous shore. With the sun shining on the
breaking waves, the scene was beautiful. It was some windy at the lighthouse so
we didn't stay too long. On the way back we walked to see the Barachois
Falls-really pretty-on a boardwalk path over the tundra like foliage.
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Rose Blanche Lighthouse
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Rose Blanche
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Rose Blanche
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Rose Blanche
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Rose Blanche
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Barachois Falls
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View of Port aux Basques in the evening
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Interesting dinner-Mom ordered scallops but they were bread balls. Some
snooker since the restaurant was recommended.
At the B&B we met a professor from MIT and his traveling companioness. It
really looked like he stole her from one of his classrooms. Mom said she didn't
think they were married. The companioness said that they had taken a Major
Nature walk during the day. There were also some Germans and a couple from
Quebec. B&B was excellent.
Tuesday July 14 Port Aux Basques to North Sydney,Nova Scotia.
Ferry was delayed by approximately 1.5 hours. The ship-the Caribou has been
having engine problems over the past few weeks. Funny thing here was that they
vacuumed the inside of the car and also spray washed the underside of the car
before letting you drive on to the ferry. They are concerned about bringing the
potato blight to Nova Scotia and beyond. We didn't mind the delay at all
as long as we got to North Sydney by 3:00 p.m to confirm our seats for the Men
of the Deeps. The ride was smooth as glass even though there were approximately
4-6 foot seas. There was entertainment and we also read and before you knew it
the ship was coming into the harbor.
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Semi's waiting to be loaded on the Caribou
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Ferry Caribou coming into port for loading
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Ferry ship Caribou coming into Port aux Basques
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After settling into a motel we drove out to Glace Bay to the Miners Museum to
hear the Men of the Deeps. A chorus with members who work for the coal mines,
The 1.5 hour performance this group put on was outstanding. It was/is one of the
high lights of the trip. One Romeo in the audience had arranged that the leader
of the chorus pause in the performance in order for him to propose marriage to
his girlfriend. She accepted. It would have been funny if she would have said
no.
Since we skipped dinner earlier we settled for a 11:00 PM pizza. Weather in
Nova Scotia is definitely warmer than Nfld. I had to use A/C here.
Wednesday July 15 Sydney to Louisbourg to St. Peters
Happy Birthday to me. After the continental breakfast where I observed one
woman toast and butter a half a loaf of bread we set of for the Fortress of
Louisbourg. This is the restoration of the old French Fortress. The restoration
is huge and done excellently with people dressed in period French Costumes and
playing the roles of the people they dress up to impersonate. The restoration
encompasses only 20-25% of the original fortress. At its height in 1745,
Louisbourg had a population of 15,000 and had as many as 300 ships in its
harbor. In 1745 a group of New England militia men came up and captured the town
for the British. The New England merchants were tired of having French
privateers seize their ships so they took the Fortress by attacking the fortress
from the land side. They knew all the weaknesses as they themselves traded here.
The fortress was handed over to the British by the NE militia and after a short
period, the English returned Louisbourg to the French in exchange for French
fortress on Sri Lanka. In 1758 the English re-captured Louisbourg and after a
short occupation, brought in Welsh coal miners to tunnel under the sea walls,
loaded the tunnels with gun-powder and blew the place sky high. The English had
Halifax and didn't need another port on Nova Scotia so they decided that if we
don't need it, nobody else can have it. Bureaucracy what it is however has
helped the restoration of Louisbourg. The French kept copies of all documents in
triplicate-one in Quebec City, one at Louisbourg and one in France. According to
the guides, there were 775,000 pages of documents relating to Louisbourg
including all the plans for the buildings..
We had lunch in a period restaurant and had a salmon steak dinner that
approximated the style of cooking in 1745. Very tasty.
One of the activities for the day was to watch the replay of a punishment for
an individual caught stealing a bottle of wine. He was marched to a pillory post
and tied to it and all the kids were throwing grass in his face. His punishment
was for 3 days at the post-two hours a day. The governors quarters were very
ornate as were the quarters of the military engineer and the colony business
manager. These guys lived fine.
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French Fortress of Louisburg
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Louisburg
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Entrance Louisburg - If you wore red you were questioned as a spy/
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Leading the guilty to the punishment block
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When waterboarding was still legal.
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Louisburg
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Precession in Louisburg
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Inside the Governors Mansion
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Louisburg
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We bought a loaf of bread from the fortress bakery. It was round and felt as
hard as a bowling ball. We hoped to have it for breakfast tomorrow. After
leaving Louisbourg we took a ride along the Mira river to Marian Bridge and then
to Mira River to pick up the route along the Southern shore of the Bras de Or
Lake. The Mira river is famous in song as is Marian Bridge so we decided that we
had to see it. Once you see it you know why it is being about. We stopped in St.
Peters for the evening at 6:00 PM.
At St. Peters we had one of the gems of the trip. There is a canal with locks
which is quite unique because it is a tidal area and the current can be puching
against the gates from either direction. Thus the canal has double gates on each
end of the lock. There was an old man there walking his dog and we got to
talking about the conditions around St. Peters and such. At one point I asked
him-"How often do the gates open?" His answer was a classic in my mind-"Whenever
a boat comes by." We stayed at Joyces motel which had one of those matresses
where you meet in the middle no matter where you started.
Thursday July 16 St. Peters,Nova Scotia to St. John,New Brunswick
Left St. Peters at around 8:30 and arrived in Truro at around 11:00 am. This
was a scheduled stop to fulfill a promise I made to Mom to let her shop here on
the way back. We spent about two hours in the shops and also at a clothing
factory outlet. For lunch we had the bread that we bought in Louisbourg. I had
to buy a knife to cut it. It was quite good.
From Truro we drove straight to St. John,New Brunswick. This town was
enveloped in a light fog when we arrived and by 8:00 the fog was heavy. This
city has very poor instructions on how to reach the information centers. A lot
of it was by guess work and at one spot If I wouldn't have got out of the car
and asked a pedestrian I never would have guessed that it was inside a Mall. The
people at the Info booth agree that the sign's or the lack of signs suck but
that is up to the city fathers. There was a blues festival in town but I was too
tired to venture out late after a great dinner at Billy's Seafood Restaurant.
Tomorrow it is down to Maine.
Friday July 17 St. John,NB to Boothbay Harbor
Left St. John at 8:30 am and headed for the border. Everything was in a thick
pea-soup fog. Gave up idea of taking ferry at St. George to Deer Isle to
Campobello Island and crossing there. Drove through St. Andrews which is a
touristy town full of shops right on the shore of Fundy Bay but didn't stop.
Crossing the border at Calais was a snap. Only questions were -where are you
from and have you bought anything. Our answer-New Jersey and three bottles of
wine and approximately 200 in gifts. Drive to Boothbay Harbor was slow. Shore
route US 1 is ok down to Bar Harbor but very busy in both directions after that.
Besides it goes through every town with no bypasses. Stopped for a good
lunch-lobster roll in Bucksport. Arrived in Boothbay Harbor at around 3:30 PM
and checked into Browns Wharf Motel.
This is an old sardine processing plant
building which has been converted to a motel and marina. Every room has a water
view and a roomy balcony. We have stayed here once before and find it to be
excellent. It is about a 10 minute walk to the boardwalk bridge across the
harbor to the downtown area. Boothbay is interesting in that it has a candle pin
bowling alley on the waterfront. You get three shots at tall narrow pins with a
ball maybe 1.5 times the size of a softball. The ball has no holes. Gutter balls
are frequent. Had a twin lobster dinner at the fishermen's co-op.
Two
lobsters-$10.95. Best prices in town. After returning from downtown and dinner
we just relaxed at the motel. I walked around the docks at the marina and looked
at some of the pleasure craft tied up. Some were really big like the Wild Goose
from Houston,TX and Weazor from Georgetown,Grand Cayman. Also Xanadu from San
Antonio,TX. These were ocean going yachts which could cross it.
Saturday July 18 Boothbay Harbor to Naugatuck, CT
Breakfast at Browns Wharf, I had Finnies Creamed Haddie-creamed smoked
haddock over toast-excellent. Mom had blueberry pancakes(3). I helped her finish
one. Then we went to the local RC church which was having a craft fair and
rummage sale. Mom bought some stuff for the grandkids and a wreath for the
house. We left Boothbay at around 11:30 for the ride to Connecticut. The traffic
was very busy Saturday, especially in the northerly direction. There was a 8
mile backup on the Maine Turnpike entrance north and a 1.5 mile backup on the
last exit southbound for us. In addition, The New Hampshire Turnpike booths had
a 1.5 mile backup going south(us) and easily another 6 mile backup in the
northern direction. Moral of the story-If going to Maine for vacation don't do
it on a Saturday unless it is 2:00 am when you get to the New Hampshire tolls.
Traffic after this was busy south but no more backups. Spent the evening and
night in Naugatuck with Arnie, Melinda, Christopher and Emily.
Sunday July 19 Naugatuck to High Bridge
Left Naugatuck at 8:30 am and arrived home at 11:30 am. No problems other
than Newfoundland withdrawal symptoms. Called the other kids to let them know
that they would have to wait longer for their inheritance. Also found out that
Kendra was expecting another grandchild for us. Expecting her third in February
1999(our seventh grandchild). Mom took me to dinner at Chubbies on Rt.31-I paid.
Retrieved my e-mail messages in the morning for reading on the plane
tomorrow-163 new messages in two weeks time. Since I can't weld an arse on to a
cat(Newf. expression) I will have to return to BASF.
Newfoundland-1998 another nice place to bum around in.
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