Southwest 2003 Week 3

Day 15 -
Monday, October 20, 2003, Grand Canyon, AZ, 0 miles driven
Sunrise in the Grand
Canyon is supposed to be one of the highlights when visiting the park and was
scheduled to be at around 6:40 AM. So I set the alarm for 6:00 AM. This being
our first night in Arizona I didn't know that Arizona does not recognize
daylight saving time and had set our clock in the room to the saving time
version. So in effect we were getting up at 5:00 AM. Another hard lesson of
life. We got caught up on some of our e-mail and were ready to go at the real
6:40. We were out there a few minutes before sunrise and watched as the sun
started to paint the canyon with its yellow light. We struck up a conversation
with an Irish couple who were on a whirlwind tour of the southwest. Their first
stop from LA had been Scottsdale, AZ but they had stayed inside the whole time
because they could not handle the 100+ degree temperature.
After snapping some
pictures, we headed for breakfast and were waited on by some waitress that I
thought had gotten up at 2:00 AM for the sunrise. She did not have a clue of
what was going on. We survived. After breakfast we decided to take our first
crack at the Grand Canyon free shuttle system. My goal was to not have anything
to do with driving today. The shuttle system is broken down into three loops.
The blue loop handles the central part of the South Rim which includes most of
the commercial areas out to the Canyon View Information Plaza. At the canyon rim
lodges, there are connections for the Hermits Rest Route which takes you out to
Hermits Rest view point which is about 8 miles west of the Thunderbird Lodge
where we are staying in the village. None of the observation points on the
Hermits Rest Route are accessible by private auto so the shuttle is the way to
go. On the east side, from the Canyon View Info Plaza the shuttle connects to
the Kaibab Trail Route which takes you to Yaki Point observation point. The blue
loop runs every fifteen minutes or so from about 1 hour before sunrise to 10 PM
while the outside legs of the system operate until one hour after sunset.
We boarded the blue
loop eastbound to get to the Market Plaza where the ATM was located. After
replacing my diminished cash supply we stopped at the Yavapai Observation
Station. While the views of the canyon are similar and sometimes the same as
those at our lodge, you can't help looking into the canyon to observe the
landscape. It is breathtaking. From Yavapai we went to the Canyon View
Information Plaza and took in a lecture by a park ranger about the geology of
the Grand Canyon. The story here goes back about 1.7 billion years and he didn't
have time to go thru all that. He did mention that while the Grand Canyon is at
7000+ feet above sea level, at many times, the top surface of the area was below
sea level. The ranger said that this is evidenced by the many layers of
limestone and that limestone is only created by the oceans. From the visitors
center we took the Kaibab Trail Loop to Yaki Point for another dose of the
canyon.
By the time we got
back to our lodge it was around 1:30 PM and we took in a lunch which consisted
of ice cream. We then visited the Kolb Gallery which is a gift shop as well as a
photography gallery. The photos on display dealt with the National Parks. All
were beautiful and most were spectacular also. As the gallery was also the
trailhead for the Bright Angel trail I decided to take a short hike down this
steep trail filled with switchbacks that will take you to the canyon floor and
then across to the North Rim. After purchasing some water for the walk I headed
down the trail. The trail is listed as steep and they are not kidding. Walking
down was quite easy . I descended down perhaps for 1/4 of the vertical drop and
then decided that that was enough. Coming back up was a different story. There
were frequent stops for a drink and rest.
After dinner we
watched the sunset at the Bright Angel area and took in a ranger program dealing
with the Hopi Indian connection to the canyon. The ranger was a Hopi/Apache
Indian woman who had been living at the Grand Canyon since childhood. She is now
a grandmother. Her talk was informative and enjoyable, dealing with some of the
customs and plants used by the Hopi Indians. She mentioned that at present there
are 14000 Hopi tribal members. While waiting for the shuttle to take us to
the program we met a man and boy who had left the North Rim at 7:00 AM and had
arrived at the South Rim at around 6:30 PM. This is a very strenuous trail of
30+ miles. They looked beat.
There is a fire
burning on the north rim side of the canyon which is contributing to the haze in
the air. It is not possible to take a picture without having some of it impact
the shot.
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Grand Canyon Sunrise at Bright Angel
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Grand Canyon Sunrise at Bright Angel
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Grand Canyon South Rim View
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Grand Canyon South Rim View
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Grand Canyon South Rim View
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Grand Canyon South Rim View
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Grand Canyon - us at Yaki Point
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Grand Canyon South Rim View
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Grand Canyon - Bright Angel Trail passage
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Grand Canyon Bright Angel Trail
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Grand Canyon Bright Angel Trail
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Grand Canyon - South Rim Sunset
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Grand Canyon - South Rim Sunset
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Grand Canyon - South Rim Sunset - there is a forest fire in the north
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Grand Canyon Sunset Sky
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Day 16 -
Tuesday, October 21, 2003, Grand Canyon, AZ, 0 miles driven
Today we explored the western loop of the south
rim by taking the Herman's Rest Shuttle route. The loop is only accessible by
the shuttle and that is OK with us. The loop has eight stops but not
counting the last stop there are only two stops that pick up passengers on the
return trip. The driver explained that it took about 75 minutes for him to
complete the loop. We decided to stop on all of the one way only stops on the
way out and then stop at the two way stops on the way back. This worked out very
well. The shuttles ran on an approximate 15 minute intervals and that worked out
well. You could walk out to the observation platform take in the view and then
come back and pick up the next shuttle. We were able to maintain this schedule
most of the time but there were occasions when we missed the next shuttle and
had to wait again. In pleasant surroundings and with the cooler temperatures
this was no problem.
At the Powell Memorial stop there is a plaque
commemorating John Wesley Powell who is reputed to be the first person to
traverse the Colorado River through the canyon. Powell was a Civil War Veteran
who had lost an arm in the war was able to complete this journey twice. From
this observation point you can see the remains of the Orphan Mine which first
started out as a copper mine in the late 1800's early 1900's. The mine was
abandoned until about 1950 when the mine was found to have the richest uranium
ore in the US. The uranium started to peter out in the late 1960's and now it is
dead again.
Before getting to Hermits Rest we stopped at The
Abyss where the view is directly down a 2000 foot cliff and also at Pima Point
which is very picturesque as you can get a 280 degree panorama at this point. At
the Abyss we got our first view of the Colorado River. It was way out in the
distance. Hermit's Rest was build as a rest stop for the hikers of Hermit's
trail which is the steepest of all in the park and not recommended for
non-seasoned hikers. The rest area is a stone structure with a beautiful
fireplace, a small snack bar and the required gift shop. We did our part to help
support this institution by having an ice cream snack and also purchasing three
bottles of water. The gift shop also got some attention and the earrings look
very good on mom. On the return trip we stopped at the two stops we missed on
the way out, Mohave Point and Hopi Point. At these sites we could get good views
of the Colorado River and some rapids and if you listened closely you could hear
the rapids roar from over 2000 feet below. From our viewpoint, the Hermits Rest
Loop observation areas are more scenic than the Kaibab Trail Loop.
We returned to Rim Lodge area around 2:30 PM so
about 5 hours had been spent on this journey. At one of the park information
displays the theme dealt with the donkeys used to transport people down the
trails. The display explained why donkeys are used on the trails rather than
horses with a question "Why not ride a Cadillac rather than a washing machine"
Obviously donkeys give smoother ride. While we were reading this a hiker advised
that he had seen a fallen donkey on the South Kaibab trail in the morning. This
is supposed to be a very rare occurrence. After lunch we headed up to the El
Tovar lodge to see how the upper shelf lives at the canyon. This lodge has a
fancier lobby than the complex we are staying at, the restaurant requires
reservations for the evening meal and the items in the gift shop are priced
higher and from the looks of the jewelry are also higher quality than the other
gift shops. The reservation clerks at this hotel wore suits and ties while at
the other lodges the dress was casual. We did not loose any money here. From the El Tovar we went up to the
Hopi House which is the mother of all gift shops in the Rim Lodge area. It has
two floors and the upper floor has the high priced sand art as well as wood
carvings, stone carvings and high priced jewelry. Two glass cases contained
Navajo jewelry which had gone dead in pawn shops and thus were now available
for re-sale. Interesting product line for an up scale shop. However the items in
the case were also up scale.
We returned to the room in time to get going to
the PM entertainment, sunset at Hopi Point. The troops start to gather at around
5:00 PM to take the shuttle up to this scenic spot for the sunset. If there
would have been jugglers, and other street entertainment there we would have
thought we were in Key West. There was a sizeable crowd there already and we
were within 15 minutes of the sunset. The fire on the north rim was pushing out
considerable smoke which again created a haze in the air. We found out that this
fire has been burning for 30 days. After the beautiful sunset we returned to the lodge to
relax for the evening and the mornings departure.
The Grand Canyon is the most visited National
Park in the US. I believe it gets in excess of 5 million visitors a year. We
learned from a bus driver that in the summer tourist months an average of 6000
vehicles enter the park every day. The driver explained that the park has
approximately 3000 legal parking spaces so in the summer months things are a lot
hectic. It is hard for me to imagine 6000 vehicles being allowed to enter with
such a lack of parking. Perhaps he was stretching the numbers but I can see that
in the summer months this place would be crazy. The park was very busy while we
were here. The shuttle busses would start to fill up after 12:00 noon and fill
up to standing room only on the return trip from Hermits Rest. I would
definitely recommend a visit to this phenomenal park to anybody but come in the
early spring or late fall. There are a lot of bus trips here which keep this
place hopping.
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Lost Orphan Mine
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View from Maricopa Point
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Powell Memorial Point - They were never seen again
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From the Abyss Point
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View of Colorado Rapids in distance
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Hermits Rest Firepalce
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My Friend at Mohave Point
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Mom at Hopi Point
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Hopi House - mother of all gift shops
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At the Hopi House - beautiful and only $1500
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Sunset at Hopi Point
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Sunset at Hopi Point
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Day 17 -
Wednesday, October 22, 2003, Grand Canyon, AZ, to Las Vegas, NV, 300 miles driven
I must add some other notes on the Grand Canyon.
Yesterday we were close to our lodge and the rim of the canyon, maybe 10 feet
from the edge. Two women stopped us and asked where they could see the canyon. I
said if they went 10 feet to the left they could be at the bottom in seconds. We
have also never seen so many gift shops in a national park. In others we had
been to, each lodge would have a shop but here, there were numerous other shops.
While the product line in each was similar in type, it was not identical. For
example, T shirts in one were not in another.
After breakfast at the Bright Angel I asked the
hostess if they actually use any coffee in the coffee. When we told the waiter
about how bad the coffee is he said that he knew but wasn't allowed to do
anything about it. The hostess also agreed about the quality and I filled in the
ratings sheet of the restaurant. A stop at the post office and we were off to
Vegas.
The ride was pretty non-descriptive. The
landscape was the same mountainous desert. By the time we had gotten west of
Williams, AZ on I-40 we had dropped to 4000 feet above sea level from 7000 at
the canyon. The temperatures had also risen. It was close to 90. The Phoenix
area in the middle of the state has had over 100 temps for the past 6 days.
Hopefully by the time we get down that way, the temperature will drop as
promised. As we approached the Nevada border and the Hoover Dam the landscape
changed to a rugged mountainous scene that had been chewed like the Grand Canyon
by the Colorado River. Because of 911, no trucks are allowed on route 93 which
crosses the top of the dam. Approximately 5 miles south east of the dam all the
north bound traffic had to pull thru a police check point. It is sad to see that
"Check Point Charlie" has been moved to the US. We were waved thru. We also
noted that there is considerable construction in the dam area which will
re-route all traffic off the top of the dam by 2007. Until then truckers will
have to use a much longer detour. We could see people at the new visitors center
and no doubt there are tours of the dam but from what I have read, the tours
after 911 are not like the tours before 911. When we took a tour in the early
90's we got down into the generating room, across the bottom of the dam to the
intake pipes. We took some pictures of the dam and continued on to Vegas.
We had made reservations two days earlier for the
Excalibur and arrived at the hotel at around 3:30 PM. The hotel rooms were not
expensive but we can see that the hotel nickel and dimes you for the most they
can get. You get a surcharge of 1.00 per day for unlimited local phone calls. On
toll free numbers they bang you for $1.00 for the first 30 minutes and then 10c
a minute after that. If you are using a phone card you get double dipped in a
big way. Luckily ATT has a local number for the internet and I don't have to use
the 800 number. I am surprised they let you use cell phones inside the hotel.
After a buffet dinner at the Excalibur we headed
by the bus with a very entertaining driver to the downtown casino area in "Old
Las Vegas" to see the laser light show on Freemont Street. Freemont Street has
been covered by a domed roof which is used at night for the laser show. The show
is nightly on the hour. It was interesting and entertaining. We were in the 4
Queens casino and mom took $5.00 from me and parlayed that on a nickel machine
to $50.00. We had left the Excalibur with $220 in our pockets and returned with
$240.00. Not bad considering that we spent $8.00 on transportation.
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Lookout Gift Shop - Grand Canyon
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My last look at the Canyon
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Boulder Dam
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Lake Mead behind Boulder Dam
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The Coloradeo below the Dam
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The Excalibur at night
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Looking at New York, New York from Excalibur
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Fremont Street
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Laser Light Show on Freemont Street- music plays with the lights
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Used to be a Casino now a half show all club.
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Day 18 -
Thursday, October 23, 2003, Las Vegas, NV, 15 miles driven
Another day in Fantasy land began with a visit to
3 thrift stores on our hunt for tins and mugs for a friend in Charlotte. After
having moderate success we headed over to the Liberace Museum. The museum
occupies two buildings which are separated by a parking lot. The first building
contains the picture and text narration of Liberace's life as well as a partial
collection of his fancy rhinestone and mirror encrusted automobiles and also
part of his piano collection. The other building contained a partial collection
of Liberace's costumes, jewelry and some of the furniture from his Palm
Springs home. One of the interesting items was a desk reported to have been a
gift to Czar Nicholas which had been sold after the Bolshevik Revolution. During
World War II, the not so nice Germans of the time (Nazis) had drilled holes in
it searching for hidden jewels and other valuables. No indication was made if
any were found. The museum charged 12.00 for adults and we got a dollar off from
AAA. Seniors at this museum are classified as 65 and over. If you wanted
earphones for an audio tour then it was another $3.00. The attendants kept
pushing a 12:30 pm show by a Liberace impersonator. We were at the gift shop
buying some cards and the clerk asked all the people in front of me if they
wanted tickets for the show. I was waiting for her to ask me as I had my answer
ready. I was going to say that I had no time as I had to go to a Salvation Army
Thrift Store across town. She must have sensed trouble and never asked me.
After the Salvation Army store we returned to the
Excalibur and decided to take the tram over to Mandalay Bay for the 2:30 pm bird
show. We were there but the 2:30 show was not. After waiting around we walked
through the casino and decided that the Mandalay Bay was a real upscale casino.
Looked real fancy and spacious. We also wanted to visit the Luxor which is
shaped like a glass pyramid but the tram for that broke down and we were not
going to walk the distance. We returned by tram to Excalibur and decided to take
in the lion habitat at the MGM Grand. Luckily we decided to take the bridge over
to the Tropicana and the MGM rather than the bridge to New York, New York and
the MGM. The Tropicana had a free pull machine right where the road overpass
from Excalibur landed. Mom insisted on taking the free pull and I won two
tickets to the Rick Thomas Magic show which was going to start at 4:00 PM. We
went to the promo booth to pick up our tickets and found out that the show costs
about $23.00 each. The magician put on a real good show. It was entertaining. He
started out with disappearing and appearing doves and cockatoo's and then moved
up to his own version of Siegfried and Roy. He also made tigers appear and
disappear. We are glad that we won the seats.
From the magic show we walked over to the MGM and
took in the Lion Habitat. Two lionesses were behind thick glass doing their
thing. The lions are raised locally and are used to being with humans. A handler
without any visible means of protection was in the enclosure with the lions.
From MGM deciding that $22.00 was too much for a buffet supper, we visited New
York, New York and decided that this was a very entertaining and well laid out
casino. Parts of the interior replicated street scenes from years ago in NY.
Very entertaining. We returned to the Excalibur and took in the $13.00 buffet.
It is excellent with a wide variety of foods and deserts.
After dinner we walked down to the Mirage to take
in the white tiger display and also the volcano eruption simulation in the front
waterfall display. The eruption was entertaining. On the way down we also
stopped at the Bellagio to take in the water fountain display which takes place
every 20 minutes. We took the bus back as both of us had been on our feet all
day and needed a little break from all the walking. A very entertaining day
indeed. We will not talk about the casino donations today other than to say they
were not sizeable.
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Liberace Museum
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Puffer Fish at Mandalay Bay
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New York, New York Casino - its got panache
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Lion in the Habitat at MGM
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Bellagio at night
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Bellagio fountain display
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White tiger at the Mirage
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Volcano simulation at the Mirage
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Day 19 -
Friday, October 24, 2003, Las Vegas, NV, to Zion/Bryce Canyons, UT 268 miles driven
Las Vegas was a nice break from the routine we
had established but it was time to leave fantasy land and get on with reality.
We were on the road by 8:30 AM headed for Utah and Zion or Bryce Canyon National
Parks. We thought of stopping for breakfast once we got out of the Las Vegas
downtown but before we knew it we were in the middle of nowhere with no
restaurants in sight. I was able to get coffee at a turnoff which isn't even
marked on the map but the restaurant there did not look too good. We continued
until we got to Mesquite, NV which is just on the border with Arizona. Mesquite
is about 80 miles out of Las Vegas and the signs advertise homes for sale here
from between 89k to 1 million. There were 4 casinos here at this spot on the map
and there were green lawned golf courses out in the middle of absolutely
nowhere.
After crossing into the northwest corner of
Arizona we entered the Virgin River Gorge on I-15. The canyon we passed thru was
spectacular with steep walls. What we saw of the river was a very shallow and
narrow stream. It was hard to believe that that was responsible for that much
erosion. Later we were to learn that the Virgin River also carved the canyon at
Zion. We passed thru St. George, Utah and this was a substantial town with a
few large malls. Civilization at last. Pretty soon we hit Utah route 9 which led
us to Springdale which is the tourist town in front of the south entrance to
Zion National Park. The park has an advisory radio station which broadcasts on
AM about the traffic conditions in the park and the use of the shuttle system
from Springdale to the park visitors center and the shuttle from the visitors
center to various points on the scenic road thru the park. It is obvious that
Zion is a very popular park and that in the summer time the visitors center
fills up. The overflow then parks in Springdale or Rockville and is bussed into
the park. We were able to drive to the visitors center and find a parking space
although the lot was pretty crowded.
The shuttle system at Zion is organized very well
and is run from April to the date of the time change in October. The shuttles
start running around 7:30 AM with a 15 minute schedule and after about 9:00 AM
the shuttles are on a 7 minute schedule. The last shuttle out of the depths of
the canyon leaves the most distant stop at 10:00 PM. Hard to imagine what one
can see after 7:30 PM at this time of year when it is pitch black in there.
We got into the shuttle and decided that since we
were at Zion with no immediate plans to return in the future, we would make all
the stops on the route, from the visitors center out to the Temple of Sinawawa.
At the museum stop there was a 25 minute video of the history of Zion. Other
notable stops were the Court of the Patriarchs, Weeping Rock, the Grotto, Big
Bend, and the Temple. The Weeping Rock is an interesting site as there is a
curtain wall of water dripping through the limestone which is carving a
cave/arch into the cliff side. The Grotto stop is the trailhead for the Angels
Landing cliff top and also the Emerald Pools. We did not make either of
these walks as they were too long and the Angels Landing was quite strenuous.
The Big Bend stop is very scenic with views of the "Cathedral" and "Organ" rock
formations. The Temple stop takes you to the Riverwalk trail which is a mile
long and leads you to the Narrows where the canyon walls are no more than 20
feet wide and in places 1000 feet high. I took this hike only to find that the
narrows actually starts about 200 yards beyond the end of the trail and the only
way to get there was to wade up the river. I did not want to do this in my shoes
and barefoot over the rocks was out of the question. I had to take the guides
word for it.
From what we saw of Zion we must say that it is
awesome. I really liked the Grand Canyon but have a feeling that if i would have
come to Zion first I might have been disappointed with the Grand. I guess it is
a matter of perspective. At Zion you get into the bowels of the canyon and are
awestruck with the cliffs around you. At the Grand you don't get this awesome
feeling unless you take the very strenuous trails to the bottom of the canyon.
Something Mom or I were not physically equipped to do. One sideline form the
Grand which also applies very much to Zion. During a ranger talk at the Grand,
one of the people asked how much of an influence did God have on the creation of
the canyon. The ranger answered that religion is really a matter of personal
belief and that each individual has to formulate his own interpretation. Science
can explain what happened and why something specific happened. Science can not
explain what set it all in motion. This is so obvious at bot the Grand and Zion.
Probably at Bryce also.
After returning to the visitors center we drove
the Zion - Mount Carmel Highway with its steep switchbacks and a mile long
tunnel which follows the faces of the canyon with plenty of curves inside the
tunnel. This road leads you past the Checkerboard Mesa which is a series of
rockfaces which have been carved into checkerboard and swirling patterns by the
wind. This road is spectacular. We arrived in the vicinity of Bryce Canyon
National Park at around 6:00 PM local time. We stayed at Ruby's Best Western a
huge motel with over 500 rooms just outside the entrance to the park. People
running the stores said that in the summer all of the rooms are booked every
night.
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Virgin River Gorge I-15 in Arizona
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Zion - Court of the Patriarchs
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Zion - on the way to Weeping Rock
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Zion - Weeping Rock
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Zion - Big Bend View - Cathedral and Organ
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Zion - Where the Narrows begins
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Zion - Riverwalk - Its the Virgin River again
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Zion - Temple area
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Zion - Temple area
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Zion - Temple area
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Zion - View at Visitors Center
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Zion - Zion-Mt.Carmel Road
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Zion - Checkerboard Mesa - Zion-Mt. Carmel Rd.
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Zion - Zion-Mt. Carmel Rd
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Red Canyon at entrance to Dixie Forrest near Bryce Canyon
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Day 20 -
Saturday, October 25, 2003, Bryce Canyon NP to Page AZ, 207 miles driven
Today we got an early start into the Bryce Canyon
National Park. Part of the reason for the early start is that Utah observes DST
while Arizona doesn't. Nevada does but they are on Pacific time so we really
didn't know what time it was when we arrived in Utah and made no adjustments to
our watches. Now we are in Arizona again and I think we will be OK now. We are
also blessed with Arizona not observing DST. We will not have to do anything
with switching clock time tonight and I think we would have gone over the edge
if we did. It was 25 degrees when we entered the park and very breezy. We needed
jackets today and a hood was great to protect the ears.
All we can say is that Bryce Canyon National Park
is a wonder to behold. The color of the sun bouncing of the red, yellow and
brown sandstone hoodoos paint a great picture. The Indian legend is that coyote
turned bad and evil people to stone. If this is so Bryce Canyon must have been
the Sodom and Gomorrah of the New World. Bryce also runs a shuttle system but
theirs is already shut down for the winter season. The altitude is around 7700
above sea level at the park entrance and by the time you get to Rainbow Point,
the last view point you are up to 9300 feet. It was still cold there at 11:00
AM. I did get to take a little stroll down the steep Navajo Loop at the
Sunset Point view area but did not take the whole 1.5 hour trip.
We visited the Bryce Lodge to find out that this
is the last week of operation but they were still booked for this weekend. They
only have 114 rooms at this lodge so it is no wonder that Ruby's Best Western
with its 500+ rooms does so well. We then left Bryce and headed thru the
beautiful Red Canyon in the Dixie National Forrest. Butch Cassidy and the
Sundance Kid are reputed to have hidden in this canyon on one of their getaway's
from a money liberation operation. At the town of Mt. Carmel we stopped at the
historic Little Stone Church which once was a schoolhouse and a church but now
is neither of those. The plaque on the door says it was a LDS(Mormon) church at
one time. There was a craft sale going on and mom bought some items from the
nice Mormon Ladies.
With the exception of Kanab - a town of many
motels, the road between Mt. Carmel and Page was among the most desolate that we
had seen on this trip. The scenery was pretty around the Vermillion Cliffs area
of Utah and also Grand Staircase Escalante area with high buttes on the horizon.
Not the kind of country though that I would like to take a hike without a water
truck behind me.
We arrived at the Glen Canyon Dam in Arizona at
4:30 PM Utah time or 3:30 PM Arizona time. Another one of those whirlwind time
changes within the past 4 days. Glen Canyon Dam is another of those security
sites and I had to walk back to the car to leave my pocket knife just like I did
last year at Grand Coulee Dam. We had missed the last guided tour by about 5
minutes and decided that we probably would not come back in the morning to do
it. The view of the Glen Canyon Bridge from the visitors center is interesting.
It looks like the bridge is wedged between the vertical walls of the canyon. We
checked into the Best Western in time to find out that we could make the 5:00 PM
Arizona time Mass. One interesting thing about Page is that all the churches
seem to be on the same street and then all in a row. I would call it a spiritual
fast food restaurant row.
Two related incidents occurred today in reference
to the earrings I bought mom at the Grand Canyon. While at one of the viewpoints
at Bryce a lady from Las Vegas complimented mom on the earrings. When we entered
the church we were greeted by a man who turned out to be a deacon of the church.
He also noticed mom's earrings and said they were very flashy and asked if they
were native made. We don't know if "flashy" was good or bad in the eyes of the
deacon. All I know is that the earrings look good on mom.
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Bryce Canyon NP - Sunset Point
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Bryce Canyon NP - Navajo Loop Trail
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Bryce Canyon NP - Navajo Trail Loop
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Bryce Canyon NP
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Bryce Canyon NP
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Bryce Canyon NP
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Bryce Canyon NP
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Bryce Canyon NP
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Bryce Canyon NP - Natural Bridge
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Us at Bryce Canyon NP
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Even ravens enjoy the view at Bryce
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Manmade arch in Red Canyon
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Red Canyon in Dixie National Forrest
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Glen Canyon Bridge, Page AZ
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Glen Canyon Dam and Bridge at Page, AZ
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Day 21 - Sunday, October 26, 2003, Page AZ to Sedona
AZ, 240 miles driven
While studying the map for the drive to Sedona I
was toying with the idea of driving from Page AZ to the North Rim of the Grand
Canyon. A distance of some 120 miles. I noticed that on the way to the North Rim
there was another bridged called the Navajo Bridge which crossed the Colorado
and that there was a historical spot called Lee's Ferry not too far from the
bridge. I decided to abort the North Rim attempt and just drive to see Lee's
Ferry. What an interesting ride. First of all, the Navajo Bridge was an
interesting stop in itself. The bridge was finished in 1929 with a bridge
similar to the one shown on my Glen Canyon Bridge yesterday. The bridge was
started in 1928 and from the video shown at the bridge visitors site it was a
difficult task. All the material for the bridge had to be hauled from Flagstaff
AZ about 130 miles over desert and muddy roads. To get material to the other
side, the bridge contractor was using the ferry which was still in operation. In
the fall of 1928 the ferry capsized while hauling a Model T and three passengers
across. The ferry sank, and the passengers drowned. Since the bridge was under
construction, the ferry was not replaced. Some material could be cabled across
the chasm but for the real big stuff after the ferry sinking the contractor had
to undertake a 600 to 700 mile journey to get around the Grand Canyon when the
real objective of the trip was only 800 yards away. The 1929 bridge has been
replaced with a wider span a 150 feet away and the old span is now a foot bridge
and a historical monument.
Lee's Ferry was established by the Mormons as the
road for expansion into Arizona and New Mexico. John D. Lee and his two wives
arrived on the site in December of 1871 to operate the ferry. John's wife Emma
became the driving force behind the ranch and ferry as John himself was absent
many times. You see John had been involved in the Mountain Meadow Massacre in
1857 where 120 non-Mormon settlers on their way west were killed by some Piute
Indians led by prominent Mormons. John was being sought as one of the
participants and thus was a fugitive at the time the ferry started. John was
arrested in 1874 tried and executed in 1878. From the Lee's the ferry operation
passed to a Johnson family - another polygamous group. Johnson with his several
wives raised 20 children at this site. Several other families ran the ferry
until it's operations came to a tragic end in 1928. The site of the ranch for
the Lee's was given the name Lonely Dell Ranch and from looking at the site it
is a proper name. Several of the buildings are still standing while others have
gone up in smoke. In the cemetery there is one stone indicating that 4 of the
Johnson children died of diphtheria in a seven week period in 1891. The disease
had been transmitted by a family passing through. Another interesting item about
Lee's Ferry was the fact that it was labeled as part of the Honeymoon Trail by
the Mormons. Mormons who had their marriages performed by civil services used
Lee's Ferry as a means of getting to St. Georges, Utah where the temple marriage
ceremony could be performed. We did see a large temple in St. Georges when we
passed by a few days ago.
While we were examining the Lee's Ferry site we
noticed some rubber boats starting their way down the Colorado. Lee's Ferry is
one of the main launching points. Another set of boats came in from upstream and
we learned that they had floated down from Glen Canyon Dam in the morning and
were being picked up by a tour bus. We also learned that Lee's Ferry is the
beginning of the Grand Canyon. So we did get to the bottom of it all. While
there are no rapids here at Lee's Ferry, there is a riffle which is classified
as the beginning stage of a rapid. There were some fishermen in the water
looking for trout and even from a distance you could hear the rushing water.
We stopped at Cameron for lunch after passing
thru the Tuba City highway intersection without any of the troubles we
experienced last week. The restaurant at the trading post is really a jewelry
and souvenir store with a restaurant attached. They should concentrate on the
jewelry. We then continued on our way with a stop at the Wupatki National
Monument. You guessed it - another set of ruins from abandoned Pueblos. The
interesting point here was that at Wupatki, the Anasazi had imported the Mexican
practice of building a open ballcourt for sporting events. The ballcourt is
thought to have facilitated trade between the peoples of the region and beyond.
Sort of like golf does in our day. The ruins are just as found with only
stabilization work done by the park service. The park service runs into trouble
with the local Indians over restoration work. According to the Indians
everything is supposed to pass back to nature in order to make room for new
people. Restoration and upkeep defeats this purpose. Wupatki is also a site of a
volcanic eruption in 1050AD. The park is segregated into two areas, the ruins
and the lava flows. The ruins area is about 20 miles from the volcano crater and
yet there is volcanic cinders all over the ground here. At the volcanic area,
you see lava flows similar to the landscape in Craters of the Moon in Idaho and
also the older lava flows in Hawaii. There is a tall cinder cone which is not
open for hiking.
We arrived in Sedona at 6:30 PM in the dark after
driving down the Oak Canyon road which is a steep descent with lots and lots of
switchbacks and hairpin turns. Should try it again in daylight as the cliffs
near Sedona looked awesome against the sky.
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Navajo Mall along rt 89. Mom is the last person at the far table
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Colorado River from the Navajo Bridge
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Navajo Bridges - new on left, old on right
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Colorado River slightly below Lee's Ferry
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At Lee's Ferry getting ready to go downstream
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Remnants of a gold mining operation at Lee's Ferry
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Peaches and Appricots in the desert at Lee's Ferry
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Johnson Cabins at Lee's Ferry
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Wupatki Pueblo
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Ballcourt at Wupatki Pueblo
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2003
Southwest Adventure
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