Southwest 2003 Week 5

Day 29 - Monday, November 3, 2003, Santa Fe, NM to
Taos, NM, 140 miles driven
We started the day by
visiting the church that we could not get into yesterday - Cristo del Rey. It is
a beautiful large interior and the difference here was that the altar screen is
carved in stone rather than carved and painted wood. From here we headed to
Taos. Along the way were many Indian Casinos which we didn't stop at. Shortly
before Taos is the San Francisco de Asis Mission Church which was built around
1814. According to the travel literature it is one of the most photographed
buildings in New Mexico. There are no photographs allowed inside the church and I
abided by their wishes even though there was no-one inside to stop me. The
church also advertises a video and a painting which shines in the dark and shows
a shadow of a cross behind the likeness of Jesus in the darkened picture which
is not visible when under normal lighting conditions. For $3.00 we got to
see the video and the painting. The video explains that the painting has been
tested for radioactivity as an explanation for its luminescence but the tests
had proven negative. No-one knows what causes it and the artist is supposed to
have said that he did nothing special to gain that effect. Sure enough, when the
lights are turned out, the background of the painting throws of light and the
shadow of a cross is there.
From the church we
headed to the visitors center to get some maps and get some information on the
Kit Carson Museum which we wantted to visit. The AAA book had said that after
October, the museum is on winter hours and that sometimes means closed Monday.
Luckily here winter hours means closing at 4 PM instead of 5. Before heading to
the museum we drove 15 miles out of town to see the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. The
Rio Grande has cut a deep chasm in this area and a bridge was built within the
past 20 years to span the gap. for a while it was known as the bridge to nowhere
as the road on the other side was not finished until well after the bridge. It
was quite windy and mom did not want to take the walk across the bridge. Driving
across was enough for her. The views of the chasm was awesome. When I stopped
walking to take a picture it was so windy that it pushed me against the
railing. No place to wear a hat.
After the bridge we
drove to the Kit Carson Home and Museum in downtown Taos. Kit Carson was one of
those larger than life figures i grew up reading about when I was a kid. The
most amazing thing about him at the museum was the chronology of his life. He
left home at 14 to become a saddlers apprentice in Missouri and ran away at the
age of 15. He joined a wagon train headed to Santa Fe and wintered over in Taos.
Halfway back to the east he joined another westbound wagon train and wound up
back in Taos. In his lifetime he trapped with Jim Bridger in Wyoming and
participated at the famous Green River rendezvous, he was a buffalo hunter,
scout, Civil War soldier and later a Indian Affairs agent. The chronology
covered his 60 year life and at no point did the time span for any entry exceed
two years. This man could not sit or stand still. If it was out west he did it.
He died in 1868 shortly after returning from Washington on a mission to improve
the conditions for the Indians. His wife of 25 years died at the age of 42 from
complications of childbirth one month before he died. Quite a man Kit Carson.
After a forgetful
lunch we then took in the Hacienda de los Martinez which is a fortress like
house built by Severino Martinez in the 1800 to 1830 time frame. The write ups
describe the life in New Mexico in this period. The hacienda had to be self
sufficient in edibles while being on the Santa Fe trail provided opportunities
to engage in trade with the outside. The hacienda is divided into two courtyards
surrounded by the various rooms and storage spaces. The front courtyard dealt
with human activities and tasks while the second courtyard was used to house and
protect the animals. With its solid doors sealed to the outside, the hacienda
was indeed a fortress. One interesting tablet described the Indian Slave trade
which had been practiced by the Indians for centuries. This trade was not
stopped until well after the Civil war and in fact some white men were also
engaged in it. Women and children were the preferred objects as grown men were
too difficult to control. One white trader engaged in the Paiute slave trade
quoted that "a young boy aged 10 to 14 could fetch $50 to $100 which was not
exorbitant considering the monumental task it took to clean them up to be fit
for the market". Nice commentary.
Another tablet dealt
with the sheep industry in the Taos area. Kit Carson at one time had purchased
6500 sheep at 50 cents a piece in Taos and driven them across to Sacramento,
California where he had collected $5.50 a head. Not a bad profit.
In the evening after
a great Mexican meal we went to the Taos Indian Casino. Mom had fun loosing
$3.00 to a nickel machine which took a half hour. Mom and I both decided that
Taos was a disappointment to us. We had heard much about its artist colony and
locale but perhaps we were expecting it to top Sedona. Everything just looks
seedier here. We had set aside two full days for here but since we had decided
that we had already seen a pueblo outside of Albuquerque at Accoma, there was no
need repeat it here.
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Santa Fe - interior of Cristo del Rey
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Taos - San Francisco de Asis Mission church
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Taos - Rio Grande Gorge from bridge
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Taos - Rio Grande gorge
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Taos - Rio Grande Gorge Bridge
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Taos - Cradle at the Kit Carson museum
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Taos - Kit Carson Museum
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Taos - Hacienda de los Martinez family quarters
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Day
30 - Tuesday, November 4, 2003, Taos, NM to Roswell NM, 298 miles driven
When we got up in the
morning the car was covered with ice. It was our first frost of the trip. The car needed to be
serviced today as we had driven over 3000 miles since our last service in
Albuquerque. We left Taos early and drove to Santa Fe as I knew where the Jiffy Lube
was there. We were in and out in about 15 minutes and were back on the road at
10 AM. The road map between Santa Fe and Roswell showed nothing but blank spaces
with no real points of interest in between so the decision was to spend a few
more hours in Santa Fe to visit the Palace of the Governors in the central Plaza
of Santa Fe. We had wanted to see this on Sunday but we couldn't fit it into the
schedule on that day.
The Palace was built
in 1610 and this building served as the seat of government for New Mexico under
Spanish, Pueblo, Mexican and US territorial rule until 1909. The building is a
rectangular adobe structure with a large courtyard. The print shop with its
original presses in working condition is still in use. We joined a tour that had
just started and the woman that led it was full of interesting stories. Three
rooms of the museum were devoted to the Jewish history in New Mexico. Under
Spanish and Mexican rule, Jews had been for the most part kept out of New Mexico
by decree although some did get there. Jewish immigration into the US increased
in the early 1800's as anti-Semitic pressures were building in Prussia. After
the US took over New Mexico and Arizona, many of these immigrants seeking
adventure in the west wound up in Santa Fe. Many became prominent businessmen
and civic leaders in the territory. The Archbishop of Santa Fe became friendly
with the Jewish leaders and when he needed the funds for the new cathedral, a
large part of the funding came from the Jewish community. Many of the
Archbishops borrowings were covered by and later written off by these leaders.
We also learned about
the second Taos Rebellion which took place in 1847 after the US took over. After
the US took over New Mexico, the residents of the Taos Pueblo and some of the
locals objected to the take-over. Territorial Governor Bent and a large number
of anglo citizens were killed in the opening part of the revolt. Fearing
retribution for this action the revolutionaries sought refuge in the Mission
church in Taos. The US military blew the church away. I have to do some more
reading about this chapter in US history. It was not taught anywhere in my days
as a student.
The guide also
explained the building of the Cathedral of St. Francis of Assissi. The
first church on this site had been destroyed in the revolt of 1680 and replaced
in 1714. When Archbishop Lamy from France was assigned to Santa Fe he had strong
dislike for the Spanish Adobe style of Architecture. He wanted a new church to
replicate a French Cathedral. In the decade of 1880, he got his wish and had the
old church razed. Only the chapel of LaConquistadora was incorporated into the
new church. We also learned that Lew Wallace - author of Ben Hur was a
territorial governor of New Mexico.
By 1:00 PM we were
ready for lunch and then the 3 hour drive to Roswell. The drive on Route 285 was
through a very barren countryside. There were numerous cattle ranches but
nothing much more. We did get to see many deer and antelope grazing in the same
range with the cattle. They were the first large wild mammals we have seen on
this trip. Pulling into Roswell I noticed the sign on the Arby's - "Aliens
Welcome." We felt at home.
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Fall along the Rio Grande below Taos
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Rio Grande below Taos
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Stagecoach in the Palace of the Governors - an illegal picture the guard didn't make me erase
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Santa Fe - Courtyard of the Palace of the Governors
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Santa Fe - statue in the Public Library
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Day
31 - Wednesday, November 5, 2003, Roswell NM to Carlsbad Caverns to Pecos
TX, 222 miles driven
Although Roswell was only scheduled as a sleep
stop prior to getting to the Carlsbad Caverns National Park, what would a trip
to Roswell be without at least taking in some of the UFO Museum. The Roswell
area is famous as the UFO capital and also where a alien spacecraft allegedly
crashed in 1947. The US Air Force has been accused of a cover-up in the incident
which was explained by the government as a weather balloon. There has been much
written about this subject and people believing in conspiracy theories have
rallied around this site.
The UFO Museum and Research center is right on
the main street running through the town. There is no charge for the museum
other than a $1.00 fee for the use of an audio tour if you want one. We didn't
take the audio as it would have taken too long to go thru. I believe that the
no-fee policy re-enforces the point that this museum was not put up as a
spectacle or entertainment. The museum documents all the signed affidavits by
the witnesses to the site, the newspaper reports dealing with the incident and
then the newspaper reports of the government version of the story. We only spent
about a half hour in the museum and only went thru about a quarter of the
exhibit. From what we saw it was a very interesting collection of data.
Something did happen in Roswell in 1947 that has not been fully explained.
Whether or not it was an alien craft or some secret government experiment will
probably never be revealed.
From Roswell we drove to Carlsbad Caverns
National Park to take in the caverns. When we walked in the visitors center a
large group of grade school students were about to enter the building and I
dreaded the thought of being in and echo chamber with about 50 urchins. We got
tickets for the tour and audio guide and then went to have lunch at the
restaurant. There are various tours available some of which are way too much fun
for us. These involve crawling on your belly to get thru narrow openings and
carrying flashlights etc. We opted for the self guiding tour of the Great Room.
There are two ways to get into the Great Room. There is the natural entrance
which requires you to walk down a steep incline with switchbacks. This method
takes you about an hour to cover the one mile of trails to the Great Room from
the surface. The other way is to take an elevator down the 800 foot drop to the
Great Room. We opted for the elevator. There was a young woman running the
elevator and I kidded her if she had gone to 4 years of college to run this
elevator. She came right back with -"Yes, I studied hard and started out with
small elevators but am now qualified to run an elevator like this with 20
buttons." When I asked if her parents were proud of her skill she said
that her parents bring all the aunts, uncles and cousins to marvel at her work.
She was AOK. I should have gotten her name as I would like to write a
complementary letter about her to the park superintendent.
There is no real good way to describe the caverns
in words and photography is very difficult in this environment. I was using my
digital camera and attempted to get the flavor of the cavern by using the time
exposure. Some came out OK, a lot were blurry because of the difficulty to hold
the camera still. Using the flash was sometimes successful but mostly the
darkness just swallowed the light. The lighting in the caverns is spectacular.
According to the brochures, a Broadway theatrical lighting consultant was
brought in to design and place the lighting scheme. There is just enough
lighting to give you a view of the most dramatic points yet the pathway itself
is dark. The tour of the Great Room takes you on a 1.25 mile path through a maze
of huge and smaller open spaces. The largest hall is big enough to hold 14
football fields. The person at the ticket counter said that it would take about
1.5 hours to do the trail. Mom and I took 3. Carlsbad Caverns are the most
spectacular we have seen. We have been to Lurray in Virginia and Mammoth in
Kentucky and find Carlsbad to be more spectacular. One of the biggest
differences here is that at the other two you have to go on a guided tour while
here you can wander at your own pace and take it all in.
We had wanted to witness the bats that exit the
cave at dusk but found out that the bats of Carlsbad are a migratory species and
had started to leave for Mexico since about the middle of October. There had
been a small number of bats visible a few days ago but the huge flights were
over for the year. We decided to continue our journey and wound up in Pecos, TX
for the evening.
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Roswell UFO Museum
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad - Garfield the Cat
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns NP in the Great Room
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Carlsbad Caverns - The Bat Viewing Amphitheater
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Day
32 - Thursday, November 6, 2003, Pecos
TX to San Antonio TX, 402 miles driven
Today was a very rare one for us on this trip. We
got up to a drizzly, rainy day which followed us for most of the day while on
the road. It is only the second time that we have had substantial rain on this
trip. We weren't concerned about the rain making us change plans as the day was
primarily going to be a driving day to San Antonio. At the end of the day I
calculated my cumulative mileage for this trip which is 6971 miles from the time
we left High Bridge.
We started the day with visiting the Pecos
Historical Museum. The museum is in the former Johnson & Heard Saloon and Hotel
which was built around 1886. The collection is primarily a testament to the
people and events that had an impact on the development of the town. the economy
of Pecos in the late 1800's was primarily driven by the cattle business. In the
1920's and 1930's it changed to oil and with the decline of the oil drilling,
the fortunes of the town have also turned. Pecos is also known as the town that
held the first Rodeo in the US. The town has had its share of characters. The
"Gentleman Gunfighter" Robert Clay Allison is buried on the museum
property. It has two gravestones, one inscription reading "Gentleman Gunfighter"
the other reading "He never killed a man that didn't need killing". 20 or more
men needed killing. Strangely he did not die a violent death. In his later years
he became a respectable rancher in the area and died accidentally by slipping or
falling off a wagon and being run over.
The saloon also has markers that indicate that on
October 3, 1886 two men were killed by one man in the saloon. To sum it up the
deceased had planned to kill one Barney Riggs on the order of their hoodlum boss
Jim Miller. Someone tipped Barney off and he showed up in town wearing a
bullet-proof vest. When the trouble broke out in the saloon, Barney was ready
and he dispatched the two would be killers. Barney was acquitted and Mr. Miller
who was also a gun for hire was lynched in 1909 in Oklahoma for killing a
prominent citizen there. Barney was killed in 1902 during an argument with his
ex-wife's son in law.
The museum also has displays honoring its rodeo
heroes, doctors, bankers and ministers. We enjoyed this museum very much as it
dealt with real lives and real events. Like the banker that gave moral lectures
to the people that borrowed money from his bank.
From Pecos we headed off to San Antonio through
Fort Stockton. At fort Stockton there is a large roadrunner statue which is
known as "Paisano Pete. For lunch we stopped in Ozona at a Mexican Cafe. Mom had
developed a bad cold and when mom ordered a hot cup of tea, the waitress seemed
very upset. She was out of tea. I said that if she brought hot water, we would
supply the tea bags. I went to the car and she brought the hot water. Since it
was rainy and foggy for most of the ride we didn't see too much today. We noted
that after Fort Stockton the scenery shifted from a flat desert to a hilly and
tree covered landscape. We have left the beauty of Colorado, Utah, Arizona and
New Mexico way behind.
In selecting motels we looked at the coupons for
a motel that had a laundry and did find a Econo-Lodge that advertised a laundry.
I knew that there was a problem when the registration sign led you to the
Quality Inn which shared the parking lot. we had a coupon for the Quality also.
When I asked about the Econo, the counter girl said that it was not open yet.
She could not explain how a discount coupon was published for a non-operating
motel. I then asked her for a map of San Antonio she said that they hadn't come
in yet. I then asked if there were beds in the room. So ends the day.
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Pecos Museum - Barney Riggs killed two here
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Pecos Museum - Real Hats from real people
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Pecos Museum - about Judge Roy Bean
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Outside of Pecos Museum - the trains kept rolling
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Pecos Museum - mom remembers these curling machines
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Pecos Museum - the inscription says it all
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Pecos Museum - Judge Roy Beans Jersey Lilly
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The Roadrunner at Fort Stockton
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Day
33 - Friday, November 7, 2003, San Antonio TX to Galveston TX, 297 miles driven
We didn't remain in San Antonio as we had been to
the Alamo, the five Spanish Missions and the Riverwalk about 5 years ago.
We instead started the drive to the Houston/Galveston Area. The roads I
had picked for this drive took us thru Goliad, TX which is one of the oldest
towns in Texas and is full of Spanish, Mexican, Texas and US history.
Up thru the early 1700's the Spanish had pretty
much ignored the area now known as Texas in favor of Mexico and California,
Arizona and New Mexico regions. In the early 1700's to counter French and
English designs on this territory, Spain started to establish missions and
military posts in Texas. The first settlements were in 1722 in the Matagorda Bay
area (now known for good fishing - I have been there) but proved to be untenable
because of the unfriendly Indian populace. After two other moves, in 1749 the
Spanish established Mission Nuestra Senora del Espiritu Santo de Zuniga and the
military equivalent - Presidio de Bahia. The Presidio and the Mission were
placed on opposite sides of the San Antonio River to protect the trade
routes in the area. The mission tended to the needs of the local Indians for
about 90 years but declining Indian population finally forced the mission to
close. As in the San Antonio missions, the stones and walls of the mission were
destroyed for use in other building projects. The CCC rebuilt the mission church
in the 1930's. Where would the cultural sites of this country be without the
depression and CCC.
The Presidio had a major role in the fight for
Texas Independence. Even before Texas became an independent nation in 1836, the
presidio had been witness to revolts against the Spanish and Mexico in the 1810
- 1825 time period. The initial declaration of independence from Mexico was
signed within the chapel of the Presidio. The Presidio would have a more somber
involvement in the revolution. General James Fannin and 400 Texan troops had
occupied the Presidio and renamed it Fort Defiance in the beginning of the
revolution. After the fall of the Alamo, Sam Houston had ordered Fannin to
retreat. Fannin was slow in his retreat and on March 19 and 20 of 1836 Fanin
lost the Battle of Coleto Creek. He was forced to surrender and Fannin and
approximately 350 of his men were taken back to the Presidio as prisoners.
Fannin was led to believe that he and his men would be allowed to return to
their homes. They were held as prisoners in the chapel of the presidio for a
week and then on Palm Sunday the uninjured were marched out in three separate
groups and massacred. The injured had been taken to the courtyard and executed
there. Fannin had been the last to be executed. He had asked that he be shot in
the heart, his belongings sent to his family and that he be given a Christian
burial. The executioner shot him in the face, his belongings were confiscated
and his body was burned along with the most of the other dead troops. His watch
was later recovered at the battle of San Jocinto. The Mexican General Urrea had
been given signed orders from Santa Ana that the rebels be made an example. Some
members of Fannins troops such as doctors had been spared the execution and some
others survived the wounds. "Remember Goliad" was the rallying cry at San
Jocinto when Houston captured Santa Ana and Texas gained independence. Twice as
many Texans died at Goliad as at the Alamo.
Goliad was also the birthplace of Ignacio Seguin
Zaragoza who led Mexican troops against the French at the Battle of Puebla on
May 5, 1862. From this victory came the Cinco de Mayo celebration.
While we were at these two sites I believe every
elementary school in South Texas was having a field trip here. We were overrun
with urchins. The Texas Park service had organized many displays dealing with
life in the early 1800's. There were woodworkers, gunsmiths, spinning, weaving
etc around the park. We felt like we were in Millbrook. One of the demonstrators
was leading a Mediterranean donkey. She said that she raises them for the market
and that they make good watch animals. They sense predators and have kept
coyote's from her goats and also stomped rattlesnakes. We also had an
interesting conversation with a Rudi R. Rodriguez President of the Texas Tejano
organization. He has authored a book dealing with the Tejano history and I
promised to buy his book.
After the tour we had lunch in Goliad at an
unassuming in appearance but wonderful food restaurant. From here we drove the
remaining 197 miles to Galveston and had dinner at one of my favorite
restaurants - Gaido's. I have been here before on business trips and as usual
the food was great. The Red Snapper covered with lump crabmeat is to die for.
The bill was also to faint for. Once in a while you have to live it up. Cup 'O
Soup dinners on other nights made up for this extravaganza.
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Mission at Goliad
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Firearm Demonstrator at Mission
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Miniature Donkey and owner.
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Presidio del Bahia
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Altar Painting circa 1947, Chapel circa 1749
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Where Fannin and 350 more spent their last days
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Burial Site of Fannin and the rest of his men
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Downtown Goliad
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Day
34 - Saturday, November 8, 2003, Galveston TX to Houston TX, 62 miles driven
Today we visited the NASA Johnson Space Center in
the Houston/Clear Lake area. Out front there was a huge Pokemon celebration
going on with dressed up characters and all kinds of kids games. We skipped this
part. After paying the $35.00 tariff for two, net of the $10.00 discount coupon,
we received our audio guides and took in the exhibits.
For the first part we decided to take the tram
tour of the Space Center which is away from the visitors center. The visitors
center is according to the AAA guide, a separate entity run by a private
organization for profit. To take the tram you get in line, have your picture
taken (which they try to sell you later for $20.00) and also pass thru a metal
detector. The guy running the metal detector was packing so I guess he was
serious. The tram takes you past some of the buildings and explains their
function in NASA. The first stop was the historical Control Room of all the
missions up through Apollo. When we entered the building the guide said that
there were 87 steps to climb but they had an elevator but it wasn't working. So
I guess they didn't have and elevator. The guide explained that the viewing room
was really the VIP room which had been visited by every president since Johnson
and that Queen Elizabeth and other world leaders had been in there. She also
said that many movie stars had also been in the VIP room. After her spiel I
asked her why she considered movie stars as important people. I told her they
were perhaps famous but not any more important than anyone else. She didn't like
my question.
The next building was the simulation and testing
building where they have real size mock-ups of the International Space Station
and also the space shuttle. They use this room to test configurations and
layouts for all missions. This building had 20 stairs to climb but the elevator
here was working. Mom was really huffing and puffing on the 87 in the previous
building. From here the tour paused at a field where there was an oak tree
planted for every astronaut that had died in space. They played an excerpt from
the speech President Bush made earlier this year after the Columbia disaster.
Back at the "Amusement Park" area we saw two films about the shuttle and space
station programs. One showed a blast off and then there was a talk regarding the
operation of the shuttle and space station.
The visitors center had a lot of hands on for
kids and there were tons of them here. The flight simulators were neat. I
crashed the shuttle twice in attempting to land it. There was other simulation
equipment for use but these cost about $5.00 each to try. I guess it is a
mini Space Disney in Houston. This is the major difference with the Kennedy
Space Center in Florida and also that the technical and visual displays were
more dramatic in Florida.
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Shuttle Engine in Visitors Area
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Actural Lunar Escape Module - the walls are thinner than a can of soda
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Saturn Rocket on Dispaly
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In the simulation and set up building
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Shuttle banners - only three are left
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Actual Mercury Capsule
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Test Lunar Rover - the real ones are still on the moon
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Actual Apollo capsule
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Lego astronaut
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Simulation Ride - some kids said it was too short.
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Day
35 - Sunday, November 9, 2003, Houston TX to Lafayette LA, 328 miles driven
After church and after sampling the Stuffed
Crepes DeLuxe at the IHOP across the street from our motel, we backtracked to
Galveston to take the free ferry over to Port Bolivar. The car
automatically selects ferry crossings just like it selects all National
Monuments it passes. The ferry runs on a 15 minute schedule and it wasn't long
before we were on the ferry for the short 15 minute ride. On the way to the
ferry we noted that there were two huge cruise ships loading up with passengers.
We saw one in port yesterday and today there were two new ones. Never realized
that Galveston was a busy cruise port.
From Port Bolivar the road follows the coast of
Bolivar Penninsula and eventually joins up with I-10 before Beaumont, TX.
Bolivar Penninsula reminded us of the Jersey shore as well as the Outer Banks
with the stilt houses and shops geared to the beach. We didn't see any swimmers
today but there was plenty of surf fishing activity. Our destination for the day
was Avery Island, LA which is near Lafayette and New Iberia in the center of
Cajun Country. Avery Island is the home of McIlhenny Co. which produces the
worlds #1 pepper sauce - Tobasco. The tour of the Tobasco factory is free
after paying a .50c toll to cross the bridge on to the island. The tour itself
is very short with a short introduction of the island and company by a guide and
then a short video detailing the company's history and product line. Then you
walk past the production line (it wasn't running on a Sunday) and then the
requisite gift shop.
Avery Island was originally a sugar plantation
owned by the Avery Family. The sugar cane operation was interrupted by the Civil
War but McIlhenny and his wife (an Avery) returned after the war to recoup the
sugar operation. McIlhenny started to experiment with the pepper plants and
developed the pepper which was later patented as the Tobasco Pepper. He started
to make the sauce and in his first year of operation produced 360 bottles of the
pepper sauce and sold them for $1.00 each. Today the plant turns out 500k
bottles a day and they sell for a $1.00 or more per bottle. In the early days
all the peppers for the Tobasco were grown and processed at Avery Island. Now
Avery Island only grows a small portion of the peppers for the sauce while most
of its pepper growing is restricted to providing all the seeds for the growing
of peppers in Mexico and South America. The peppers grown outside of the US are
ground and shipped in barrels to Avery Island where the final processing takes
place. The ground peppers (pepper mash) are allowed to ferment in wooden barrels
for three years after which time the mash is mixed with vinegar and some salt
and bottled in the plant at Avery Island. During the fermentation process, holes
are drilled into the top of the barrel and the top is covered with a thick layer
of rock salt which comes from the salt dome which is under Avery Island. The
salt permits air and gasses created during fermentation to escape yet stops
foreign matter to enter the mash. The barrels are used for about 20 years after
which they are cut up and sold as a fuel for Cajun Barbecue.
The McIlhenny family still runs the operations on
Avery Island. The video emphatically pointed out that a descendant of the
original McIlhenny still selects the peppers to be harvested for all the
seed stock. In addition, the island produces natural gas and oil and has a huge
rock salt deposit which is mined on a lease by Cargill Corp. It is a pretty
island which must generate a pretty income for the family.
After the requisite stop in the gift shop where
we somehow lost $25.00 and walked out with a bag of stuff, we returned to
Lafayette and decided to have dinner at Mulates - a Cajun restaurant. Mulates is
unique in that it has Cajun music 7 days a week. We arrived just as the group (I
didn't get their name - but they were excellent) was starting their first set
and after a leisurely dinner they were still playing when we left. Cajun music
is especially great to listen to live and they didn't disappoint. People were
always on the dance floor.
So ended an excellent week - Santa Fe to
Lafayette, LA
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Our Cruise Ship in sight
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Outbound from Houston Ship Channel
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Spectators
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Another Ferry on the Low Seas
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Inbound for the Houston Ship Channel
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Bayou in Louisiana
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All the Tobasco in the world is processed here
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Even fish like Tobasco Peppers
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2003 Southwest Adventure
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